Odisha Single Ikat Saree and Cotton Dress Material

Odisha Single Ikat Saree

Tie & Dye process, worldwide known as Ikat is perhaps one of the oldest technique which have wide acceptance till date in textile industry to ornament the fabric. Tie & Dye (Ikat) is nothing but tying of yarn or cloth and dyeing. The Ikat style is produces on the basis of resist dyeing process of yarn.

The Tie and Dye technique of weaving textile is known as ‘Bandha’ in Odisa. Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur, Barpali and other adjoining villages in Western Odisha. Creation from famous poets, decoration of the walls of the houses by women on ceremonial occasion (Jhoti’ and ‘Cheeta’) and enchanting landscapes of Odisha. Moreover Gitagovinda Khandua, Silk calligraphy Ikat fabrics, offered to Lord Jagannath, Puri has shown the high skill in the technique.

Material Used

2/80s &2/120s mercerized cotton in warp & weft. Extra warp in body & extra weft in anchal are used. Also 20/22D (2 ply or 3 ply) in warp, 20/22 D (3 ply or 4 ply) in weft single Ikat silk sarees are being produced in different parts of Odisha.

Technique applied

It is necessary to understand the Bandha technique. Warp or weft threads or both are pre tied and dyed, Motifs are pre designed on the thread before they are placed in the loom for weaving. In Bandhas, tie and dye design and decoration is inbuilt and colour Scheme has been pre- decided. At time of weaving, the Artist gives visibility to the design and Colour. The most distinguishing feature of Bandhas is that both Face and Back of the Cloth have the same Design and Colour.

Production area

Weaver’s of Bargarh district are famous for producing this saree which is about 350 KMs from Bhubaneswar. Apart from Bargarh district weavers from Subaranpur district about 300 KMs from Bhubaneswar, Bolangir district about 400 KMs Bhubaneswar, Boudh district 250 KMs from Bhubaneswar, Nuapatna & Maniabandha area of Cuttack district about 75-80 KMs from Bhubaneswar are engaged in production of the saree.

How to distinguish

Technically Odisha Ikat is different from the products of Andhra Pradesh and Patola fabric of Gujrat due to its yarn grouping systems. Generally in Odisha the weavers prepare grouping of yarn with 2 picks/ repeat, 3pick/ repeat or maximum 4 pick/ repeat where in Patola or Pochampalli Designs are made out of 8 picks/repeat, that is why we found geometrical pattern in Pochampalli or Patan potla unlike Odisha Ikat here we find continuous floral pattern/ also shaded effects are seen in Odisha products which are unique in Ikat products. Ikat techniques is different from Bandhani i.e. in Bandhani techniques cloth is tied and dyed where as in Ikat yarn is tied and dyed and then prepared yarn is woven in fabrics.

Cotton Dress Material

Background

Ikat cotton dress materials are produced for mostly ladies and some Ikat dress materials for gents. Generally weft ikat are used in garments.

Material Used

2/40s to 2/120s mercerized cotton in warp and weft.

Production area

Bargarh district 350 km from Bhubaneswar, Boudh district 250 km from Bhubaneswar, Nuapatna, Maniabandh area in Cuttack district about 75 to 80 km from state capital.

Technique used

Single ikat technique is applied (either warp Ikat orWeft ikat).

How to distinguish

Technically OdishaIkat is different from the products of Andhra Pradesh and Patola fabric of Gujrat due to its yarn grouping systems. Generally in Odisha the weavers prepare grouping of yarn with 2 picks/ repeat, 3pick/repeat or maximum 4 pick/ repeat where in Patola or Pochampalli Designs are made out of 8 picks/repeat, that is why we found geometrical pattern in Pochampalli or Patanpotla unlike OdishaIkat here we find continuous floral pattern. Also shaded effects are seen in Odisha products which are unique in Ikat products.

Source : India Handloom Brand