Salem Silk Dhoti

Back ground

Salem is one of the major cities of Tamil Nadu situated at a distance of 334 Kms from Tamil Nadu State Capita, Chennai. Salem is famous for weaving of Silk Dhoti, Cotton Dhoti and Silk Sarees. White silk Dhoties are unique to Salem Region.

Material Used

Pure Mulberry silk, normally obtained from Karnataka (Bangalore & Mysore) is used in wrap & Weft. Raw silk is degummed & bleached (locally known a Ushna) and used in Warp & Weft. Pure jari or Half fine (imitation Jari) is used in border and Pullu / Kambi, which is unique to this variety.

Technique Applied

Salem Silk Dhotis are produced from time immemorial by the local tradional weaving community known as “Sourashtra” Community. The Silk dhotis of salem are famous for their luster, whiteness, technical excellence and novelty of border designs viz., Nagachattai, Kammal, Diamond with roja, muthu with gold pettu etc. It is woven on pit loom / raised pit loom. Border in extra Warp is controlled by dobby. Of late jacquard is used in case of bigger designs or korvai designs. For Kambi in corss border rib weave is woven with the help of healds itself. Thus the cross border looks same in face and back of the dhoti.

How to distinguish genuine Salem Silk Dhoti

• The chief attraction of the Salem silk Dhoti is its luster. The luster is Salem Silk Dhoti is created by flattening the surface of the dhoti with the help of small brass / steel plate on the loom itself.
• The jari in the border and pallu in the form of kambi is also unique. The rib design appears identical on both sides of dhoti.
• Solid contrast borders on both sides of the Dhoti are woven with 3-shuttle weaving technique.
• Many times, two differently coloured borders are woven in the same Dhoti like Red & Green, Blue & Red, Green & Orange etc.

Source : India Handloom Brand