Molakalmuru Sarees

Background

Molakalmuru taluk is in Chitradurga District-about 250 Kms from Bangalore. The main occupation of the people is weaving next to agriculture. Most of the weavers of Molakalmuru belong to Sokulasali, Pattasali and Padmasali communities.

Material used

Mulbery filature silk in warp and charkha silk in weft are used. Silk yarn is procured from Silk Exchange, Bangalore, private dealers and from Karnataka Silk Marketing Board. The silk yarn after doublikng and twisting is converted into hanks or to a required length and supplied to weavers. Zari is procured from Surat.

Technique applied

In traditional Molakalmuru silk saree, though it is a 3 shuttle work, the border is woven with same colour for both warp and weft where as the body is woven with a contrast colour so as to give a fine shot effect with body. The colour of the Pallav warp and weft is same as that of border colour. This is done by tie and dye technique. The weaving is done mainly on pit looms with fly shuttle and also through a throw shuttle method. 3 shuttle are used, 1 shuttle for body portion and 2 shuttles for both side borders. Presently, Jacquards of 120 hooks and 240 hooks are used for extra warp and weft designs respectively.

How to distinguish genuine Molkalmuru Sarees

• The uniqueness of the saree is its contrast colour in pallav and border portions as compared to the colour of body portion. – i.e. pallav and border-one colour. Body – another colour.
• Towards attaining contrast colours in border and pallav portions three shuttles are used i.e. 2 shuttles for the borders and pallav and 1 shuttle for body portion.
• Mainly dark colours like Maroon, Red, Blue, Mustard, Green, Yellow, Snuff, Pink, Black are used in Molakalmuru sarees. The traditional designs of Molakalmuru sarees are
  • Hamsa
  • Rudrakshi
  • Vanki
  • Lotus
  • Peacock
  • Mangoes
  • Gandaberunda etc. 

Source : India Handloom Brand